Epic Cycle Journey Chapter 201 Tequila – Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico

Resign or call in Dead! this is an 8fer!!

 

March 15 2015    Day 318
Tequila – Guadalajara (Jalisco) MEXICO
Distance: 72 km               Total: 16721 km

 

2015.03.15 a Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico (1) (640x480)

Well this morning we woke to a grey sky and it was raining. We were still up at 730am and hoping that by the time we left it would settle.

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The Travellingfoxes are ready to roll!

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We had a good breaky, packed up and said our thanks and goodbyes to Hector.

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Luck was in our favour this morning as the rain had stopped.

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We made our way out of Tequila via the 15 Libre (free road), which was busy and narrow.  Lots of tourists shops, tequila stores and a barrel fabrication store. Even the tiny little barrels are made with individual pieces like the large ones. What an effort.

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OK??????

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We had a few small undulating hills for the next 12km to the town of Amatitan where we wanted to check out Tequila Herradura. A short ride along a cobblestone road to the factory but unfortunately tours were not running for another 1.5hrs and we really wanted to get into Guadalajara today.

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Not ridable but VERY cool!

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So we moved on……only to get about 5km down the road and arrive at Tres Mujeres Tequila factory.

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Fortunately for us there was a private tour in progress!

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When in Rome!

sooooo we wandered about and then joined in the free sampling on offer.

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This factory had some of the vats full of fermenting tequila.

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I want one of these lounge suites when I grow up!

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We had been having light rain sprinkles on and off. After leaving this Tequila factory we found a dirt track leading up to the 15D (toll road) so decided to jump back on that. This is where we met Marco and Marianna, who unfortunately had run out of petrol with their Motorcycle.  We only had 1 Litre (go figure that a cyclist would carry premium petrol! we use it for our stove!!) and wouldn’t need it tonight, so we gave it to them. Not sure if it helped but it sure was nice to be able to offer and return some kindness.

2015.03.15 e On route to Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico (3) (640x480)2015.03.15 e On route to Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico (5) (640x480)

At the next toll booth we took a lunch break sitting inside at the OXXO (OXXO and Pemex are like our McDonalds). Here we met a lovely lady Diana from Dallas Texas who was visiting family in Tepic.

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From this rest stop it was non stop on a few rollercoasters to the outskirts of Guadalajara. We now have 20km to go, smack into the middle of the city with its surrounding population somewhere around the figure of  10 million. Ken has a great way to look at it…..it doesn’t matter if it’s a town of 1000 people of 1million people at any one time you are just riding on one road, so you deal with each road as it comes.  So that’s what we did. A quick stop to recalculate the garmin, a quick 1km back track to get on a more quiet road and we were off.

2015.03.15 e On route to Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico (14) (640x480)

Unfortunately the rain started to come down heavier now and we did have to stop and gown up as the temperature had dropped as well.

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Whilst stopped at a red light, a local driver pointed out the bike path which ran right down the centre of the busy rode. Once we got on it, it was awesome.

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Fortunately for us our garmin took us through a section of Zapopan Historic Centro, passing a beautiful square and cathedral which was the backdrop for a festival.

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(The Basilica of Our Lady of Zapopan, it is one of the richest and oldest in Jalisco architectural gems. It is one of the main religious centers of the country, its construction dates from 1690 and was completed in 1730. The first towers were demolished in 1725 and the current was completed in 1734.)

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Beautiful costumes, singing, drums, unfortunately rain, however this did not deter from any of the energy and emotions of the festival.

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We would have loved to just sit for the entire duration however it was getting later, raining, we were getting cold and still had to find our accommodation before dark.

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After another 6km we found the Casa de Ciclistas Guadalajara (home of cyclists), but we were at the old address, the new premises had moved a few blocks around the corner.  Luckily we were able to find an internet cafe around the corner, so made contact with Isaac who came over and let us in.

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The original house is closed and the new one opens tomorrow, so we are the first guests at the new premises, mind you, it is far from ready. They had rented it out last night for a big party and unfortunately the place was like a bomb had hit it and it had yet to be cleaned up.

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We didn’t care, just so happy to be inside, out of the cold and rain, which was now coming down in bucket loads. Isaac got us sorted and would be back tomorrow. We cleared and cleaned off a couple of areas to make ourselves comfortable. Got dry and warm and enjoyed a lovely warm cuppa. After dinner we watched some TV before setting up the tent and getting to bed around midnight

 

Summary
Weather:  Rainy, Overcast, Bucket loads of rain, Cold
Towns/Villages: Tequila, Amatitan, Zapopan, Guadalajara
State / Country: Jalisco, MEXICO

 

Next!

 

March 16 2015    Day 319
Guadalajara (Jalisco) MEXICO
Distance: 0km        Total: 16721 km

 

…..and it’s still raining, bucket loads.

 

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We slept in, and literally sat around all day catching up on blog and photos.

Isaac and the cleaning team arrived to put a clean look on the place.

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Around 2pm we gowned up in all our wet weather gear and wandered out to the market for some supplies, fresh veges, meat and treats, which we found all at such cheap prices. We also found a great bulk foods shop, so got heaps of fresh granola for our breakfasts.

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How much is that Doggy in the window!! Sing along if you know the words.

Once back at home, we made another warm cuppa and continued chilling out and catching up on all our blogs and photos, we had about 9 days in total. What a perfect day to be lazy, it was not a riding or sightseeing day at all.

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The Casa did hold a community meeting this evening, however we were allowed to stay tucked away in our corner.

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Tucker time!

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Just before we went to bed there were sirens and excitement down the road as the paramedics arrived!! NO!! Nothing to do with banditos!

As we put our head down for sleep….yep! you got it……still raining.

Summary
Weather:  Grey and Bucket loads of rain, cool
Towns/Villages: Guadalajara
State / Country: Jalisco, MEXICO

 

More More!!

March 17 2015    Day 320
Guadalajara (Jalisco) MEXICO
Distance: 0km    Total: 16721 km

 

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Rainy morning, so we lazed around. By mid-afternoon the rain had stopped and Jules had found an Art Museo that was free on Tuesday….so on with the walking shoes, ready to tackle the second largest city in Mexico.

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It was about an hour walk to Guadalajara Historic Centro without any stops, however we were strolling and winding our way through numerous streets, stopping to look at buildings, shops, markets and churches.

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Oh my one thing is for sure….in this city you cannot use a church spire for a landmark as there seems to be one on nearly every second corner.

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Markets everywhere

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Upon reaching the main Centro area we were just blown away with the beauty and splendor of this city.  The architecture and age of these buildings are amazing.

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On our way to the Museo we just got ourselves lost (on purpose) strolling through some of the absolutely stunning Centro Historico which is dotted with historic icons, museums, governments offices, cathedrals, plazas, cafes, restaurants, bars and hotels by beautiful historic buildings.

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Rotonda de Los Jaliscience, (rotonda de los hombres llustres)- A Plaza ringed by 20 bronze sculptures of the state’s favourite writers, architects, revolutionaries and a composer, some of them are actually buried underneath the rotunda.

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Cathedral Metropolitana / La Cathedral de Guadalajara: (The Guadalajara Cathedral or Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady (Spanish: Catedral de Guadalajara or Catedral de la Asunción de María Santísima).

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The very first stone of the Cathedral was placed in 1568 and beneath the alter lie the crypts of bishops.

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Everyday street life

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Plaza de Armas (also called Plaza de la Constitution) with its beautiful Gazabeo, statues, and trees.

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Palacio de Gobierno (State Government Offices)

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Just so many lovely plazas (public squares), buildings and churches, all great places to sit and admire, while people watching.

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Interesting way to get your laundry delivered!

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Winding our way along the streets, sampling some cooked and seasoned ‘grasshoppers’.

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We eventually made it to the Museo – Instituto Cultural de Cabanas.

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They say Beauty is in the ‘Eye of the beholder’ especially with art, but this is just plain stupid! – seriously! And believe it or not, it actually got worse!

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Built between 1805-1810 this building was once an orphanage and for 150yrs housed 500 children, now it houses collections of art work.

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What is regarded as some of the finest works by muralist ‘Jose Clemente Orozo’s’ are here.

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Its definitely a beautiful building with lots of hidden courtyards surrounded by archways and trees.

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At the front of the building we admired some really cool sculptures, before strolling our way down the wide pedestrian plaza of ‘Plaza Tapatia’, with sculptures and fountains.

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Weird pet time!

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Whew! it was time for a breather and something to eat so we headed to the massive Mercado San Juan De Lios (Mercado Libertad).

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This space began as a merchants association in 1603. Getting lost in this three story building full of everything from traditional food, handcrafts, clothing, household good, to diamond jewelry (in the heavily guarded building next door). It was a good browse and after some great food set off again towards the Arena Coliseo.

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We passed by the Parroquia San Juan De Dios Y La Santa Cruz (Church)

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and onto the cobblestone alleyway of Plaza de Los Mariachi’s – ‘the birth place of mariachi music.

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A very quiet place by day with just a few Mariachi’s hovering around with instrument’s in hand.

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Pharmacy advertising!!

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Finally we found the Arena (in the more ‘dodgy end of town’) NOT just any Arena!! No Siree!! We are talking “LUCHA LIBRE” (wrestling) for $5.50 each. Woohoo! Lets RUMBLE!! oops wrong wrestling – never mind!

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Not that we are fans by any means but we arrived early (around 630pm) and were able to get some great photos with some of the wrestlers . We also got talking with Jesus and his family, Jesus had lived in Tennessee for a few years and spoke good English.

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A few ‘coldies’ to calm the excitement!

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Well this wrestling was a great laugh, a good bit of cheap senseless fun.

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If the photos aren’t enough to get your juices flowing then click here!

Click for some live footage!

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It was just awesome to watch the crowd go off at the wrestlers and also at each other.

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You gotta be ‘in it to win it’!

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There was quite a lot of chanting and abuse being called out.

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Who say’s we don’t assimilate to cultures!

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How could you leave without a doll of your favourite wrestler OR a mask to scare the shit out of your wife with in the middle of the night!!??

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It was a late night, finishing at 11pm and we had quite a walk ahead of us. It was a lovely evening to stroll  so we retraced our route back via the Plaza de Los Marichais, (a few bands still out playing)  and then via more gorgeous buildings and plazas under the lights of night.

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We passed Plaza Fundadores (Founders Square) and on the back wall of the theatre was a massive 21m long x 3m high bronze sculpture commemorating the settlement of Guadalajara, and also a fountain below. “Guadalajara” which means “river that flows over stones” in Arabic.

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Its such a Beautiful City! We passed the impressive Palacio de Justicia (State Court House) & Palacio de Legislativo

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Plaza de la Liberacion and Monument a Hidalgo,

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Teatro Degollado

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Eventually winding our way back through the tiny streets to arrive back home around 1am.

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Holy Moly. We will definitely be back out to explore again. Sometimes there is nothing better than to “get lost” in a city. Guadalajara has such a beautiful Historic Centro .
What a wonderful day!

Summary
Weather:  Grey with rain, overcast to clear night.

Towns/Villages: Guadalajara
State / Country: Jalisco, MEXICO

 

But wait there’s more!

 

March 18 2015    Day 321
Guadalajara (Jalisco) MEXICO
Distance: 0km    Total: 16721 km

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After yesterday’s bonus afternoon and not getting to bed until around 2am this morning, without any discussion it was a sleep in and lazy day.

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They love their Bugs!! They are everywhere.

The weather was clearing with more patches of blue sky then grey clouds. We got washing done,  wasted time on the computer, then went for another walk around the local neighbourhood to the market. Such awesome meat, fruits, veges, sweets, cheese etc available .

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With such a vast amount of energy spent today it was siesta time and then we watched a movie .

Summary
Weather:  Patchy blue sky and cloudy.
Towns/Villages: Guadalajara
State / Country: Jalisco MEXICO

 

Coffee – you need Coffee!!

 

March 19 2015    Day 322
Guadalajara (Jalisco) MEXICO
Distance: 0km    Total: 16721 km

 

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Well today is our day trip. We are jumping on the local autobus to explore a few of the surrounding cities that have been gobbled up by the growth of Guadalajara.

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On our way into downtown for the bus we made a stop and enjoyed some of the wonderful street food – torta ahogada (chili-soaked pork sandwich) – delicious!

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It was then onto the local bus, for 13km ride out to the bustling suburb of Tonala.

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Every Thusday and Sunday Tonala bursts into a massive street market. All the dark and dusty stores and workshops, glass blowing, ceramics, furniture, masks, toys, jewelry, handmade crafts, street food and drinks stalls, and everything in between basically burst out onto the streets.

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Lots of good stuff and lots of stuff you could leave,  a shopper’s dream unless your travelling via bicycle, but it’s still great to window shop!

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Gortidas (filled with meat and potatoes), fried spicy lima beans, chocolate & coconut sweets…..yum. No chance of losing any weight here.

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We wandered and browsed shops and stalls for a few hours, sampling food as we went.

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Talk about a small world: we even ‘bumped’ into Jesus, the guy we yapped with at the Lucha Libre, he was in a work car and turned the corner right in front of us and Ken recognised him, he stopped and we had a quick chat. Wow!

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Sweets for my Sweets!

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Once we had had our fix of hustle and bustle here we jumped on another bus to Tlaquepaque, 7km from downtown Guadalajara.

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A lovely town with beautiful buildings, pastel coloured buildings, cobblestone streets, lots of artists and galleries. Once again selling goods from wood carvings, furniture, ceramics, jewelry, leather items and everything in between, however at very expensive prices.

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Some Spanish bullfighters were in town for tonight, one male and one female. We went to check out the tickets and the guys let us have a look at the ring, it was a small one (so you would get a very intimate experience of watching the Bull fighter severe the spinal cord of the bull!! – romantic huh!!). The tickets were affordable however the buses back to Guadalajara stopped running before the event finished and it was also forecast to rain tonight. So it wasn’t to be this time!

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Enjoyed some amazing ‘Lonches’ –{fresh dough bun (looks like a hot dog) stuffed with meat & vegetables}.

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We strolled down the pedestrian street to the Plaza Jardin Hidalgo which was surrounded with lovely trees and flowers starting to bloom and once again the spires and domes of two more beautiful Basilicas.

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Just a beautiful city to roam around!

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One of the museums we wanted to visit, which should have been open, unfortunately wasn’t, bummer! So we wandered back to El Parin, a garden complex of various bars and restaurants, at the corner of the Plaza and listened to mariachi music flowing out the doors.

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Time for a Tequila sample (when is there a bad time!) and then it was back onto the bus to downtown Guadalajara…..standing room only.

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Every man and his dog were out tonight, the Historic Centro was a massive buzz.

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We grabbed a coffee and sat our bums on a park bench in Plaza de Armas, and for the next hour we were pleasantly serenaded by the local Guadalajara Orchestra who sat proudly in the Gazebo performing a free concert twice a week for the people of the City.

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Click here to see and listen to some live footage from the program only about a minute a piece.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2jvC5DDV-Q
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjpUxRaVHaA

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The backdrop setting couldn’t have been more beautiful, La Cathedral one side and Palacio de Gobierno on the other, as the sun went down the lights of the buildings came on. It was a great place to people watch as well.

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Plaza Guadalajara directly opposite the cathedral, with a lovely fountain, trees, cafes and shops.

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Unfortunately around 8pm it did rain and that seemed to bring an early end to the evening for most people.

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Yapped with a local bicycle cop and balloon man as we left the Plaza.  We strolled our way home, finding the yummiest and cheapest ‘Lonches’ and ‘Sweet Empanadas’ yet.

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When we had arrived home some other guests had arrived at the Casa Ciclista.

Meet: Julian Rojas from Columbia cycling from New York to Columbia  on a Novara Safari (go figure!!)  – facebook and Marketa & Nicolas – Camino Bambu – Cycling on a bamboo tandem.

We all yapped for awhile before excusing ourselves to go enjoy our excellent dinner, all so delicious. What has been great is that with all the different foods our body is coping fine.

It was a big day, late night and all fantastic.

 

Summary
Weather:  Blue Sky, Sunshine, Cloudy, Rain
Towns/Villages: Guadalajara
State / Country: Jalisco MEXICO

 

Stretch!!

 

March 20 2015    Day 323

Guadalajara (Jalisco) MEXICO
Distance: 0km    Total: 16721 km

 

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We had an easy morning, yapped with Isaac, Nicolas & Marketa before heading back into the Historic Centro. Between Noon and 2pm the Teatro Degolladro is open (and free) to look inside. So that is the destination.

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Amazing beast!

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As we have been walking everywhere, we make sure to take a different route into and out of the Historic Centre each time. This way we get to explore and see different things along the way.  Beautiful colourful houses, old ones, and amongst them all types of businesses (large and small), shops, bakeries, restaurants, corner stores, and many street vendors always about everywhere.  Lots of colourful art work scattered on buildings but also unfortunately an enormous amount of ugly graffitti, which is disappointing.

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By taking all these different routes each day we get to sample different foods from various places, the down side is when we find a good one we never seem to remember where they are. Today’s find was a little corner tienda called ‘Pastes de Pachuca’ that made and sold great coffee and Rellenos (pastes) all at ridiculously cheap prices, and this one is so centrally located we have it locked in for future reference!!

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Everywhere around the city the government has a bike rental system in place!

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We took the opportunity to explore the inners of the beautiful theatre ‘Teatro Degollado’

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Not bad we must say!

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Browsed and strolled our way through a number of buildings, from the theatre, to city hall and government offices and Museums. We looked at heaps of murals, mostly by Jose Clemete Orozco & Gabriel Flores, and other artworks while at the same time admiring the inside of these amazing buildings.

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We sat in Plaza Guadalajara people watching and enjoying a nice coffee and a couple more of those delicious Rellenos for lunch before strolling the streets and browsing some shops.

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Cool Cop car!                            Crap Cop car!

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Palacio de Gobierno

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Obviously like every Country, not everyone is happy!

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Street hawkers selling their colourful items

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Another funky museum! Convento del Carmen

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Ok??!!

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Unfortunately as we noted earlier, there is a HUGE amount of graffiti lining the beautiful streets of Guadalajara. BUT there is an unreal amount of great street art as well.

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We made our way home via  Parque Revolucion (popular with skaters).

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We then arrived at the impressive Templo Expiatorio.

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A Gothic Temple dating back to 1897 with its stunning 15ft high stained glass windows and stain glass windows up the spire.

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It’s a hard life for some. Though its amazing at how less amount of homeless or beggars we see in Mexico compared to the USA.

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We strolled across the street to the Universidad de Guadalajara to see the Museo de Las Artes with more humungous murals by Jose Clemente Orozco.

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30 second street act to make a few Peso’s! Tough gig!

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Plans for tonight were to try and get to the Charreado (Rodeo) but we were actually pretty puffed (too much walking, go figure!) and rain was in the forecast again….. so it was homeward bound.

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On the way home stumbled across a Muay Thai Stable and popped in for a look and say hello. (David – for your info: Kratingdam Muay Thai, Instructor Samuel Leyva Rivera)

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We enjoyed fresh homemade mango & avocado sala on tostados, which was just delicious, then we relaxed, watched a movie and crashed.

(The spanish lessons have not been going so well lately…..haven’t done any for awhile, so we will have to get back into it soon.) Its challenging trying to fit them in as we are either cycling and buggered at night or we are are exploring new places and then buggered at night! Never mind!

 

Summary
Weather:  Patchy blue sky, overcast and dark grey clouds.
Towns/Villages: Guadalajara
State / Country: Jalisco, MEXICO

 

Your doing great!! Hang in there!

 

March 21 2015    Day 324

Guadalajara (Jalisco) MEXICO
Distance: 20km    Total: 16741 km

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After a good sleep and chilled morning, we jumped on the  bikes and headed off to the Lienzo Charros de Jalisco, to see the 12noon Charreados (Rodeo).

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Wow! a lot quicker on a bike….funny that!

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Unfortunately we were advised that the event had been postponed until 4pm, so how could we waste 4.5hrs…..

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We made our way across the road to the Museo of Paleontologia de Guadalajara, it was a good visit.

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Then riding back past the Parque Agua Azul, a lovely park which you have to pay for, so we just strolled through the markets across the road.

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Escudo de Armas (Coat of Arms)

Following the lead (not necessarily the correct lead!) we zipped along the bus lane back to the San Juan de Dios Mercardo.

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Man! Imagine the chaos we would have caused if they had these in our day!

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Along with a couple of more relleons and a coffee, today we sampled a plate of freshly cooked veges with cream sauce, cheese and chilli…very nice.  As previously mentioned the plazas are a great place to people watch, and today we were lucky to sit right next to ‘the pigeon orchestra’. There are loads of trees all around these plazas, many  Jacarandas starting to bloom, so one can only imagine how beautiful it will be once they are all in full bloom.

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We meandered through the pedestrian walkways looking at the markets, statues, fountains, colonial buildings, watched and listened to street performers.

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Talk about being strict, Hey!! Where’s the fun!

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Plaza Tapatia (Tapatia Square)

It was time to head back to Lienzo Charros de Jalisco for the 4pm Charreados. Zipping down the bus lane made the ride so quick, and there weren’t any buses.

Disappointment again when we were told they had delayed the event even further, ‘Bugger’ (actually a lot more choice words were discussed). We spoke with a gentleman Miguel, who spoke good English and was actually one of the judges in the event, he said it was now 6pm, he wasn’t impressed either.

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Well that was it for us today, we stopped and people watched for another hour or 2 then got on our own ‘trusty steeds’ and headed home.

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We’ve actually considered taking our pet Ferrets for a walk in the main street! Nothing weird here!

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Kicked back after buying a couple of brewski’s and pastry’s and relaxed, did a spanish class and watched a movie.

Summary
Weather:  Blue sky, patchy clouds, late night rain.
Towns/Villages: Guadalajara
State / Country: Jalisco MEXICO

 

Give yourself a well earned rest, this is the last day! Bravo!
March 22 2015    Day 325
Guadalajara (Jalisco) MEXICO
Distance: 16km    Total: 16757 km

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It rained during the night but we woke to a nice day.

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Being Sunday, the city closes certain roads to pedestrian’s only. Mexico is a very progressive country with many things.

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As it was a lovely sunny day people were out in droves, cycling, walking, running, skating.

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So we made sure to join in as we rode our way to the Charreados (rodeo), for ‘third time lucky’ .  Today it was schedule for 12 noon and “YES” success, it’s on!

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We found a seat, it was open seating and pretty much all were good viewing. Ran into Miguel again and he told us where a couple of better seats were for certain events.

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The next 2.5 hours we enjoyed watching smartly dressed (Charro bows, pressed shirts and sombreros) El hombres y caballos (men and horses) participate in various events. (bull riding, horse riding, lassoing, calf wrestling, team events). Unfortunately there were no women’s event but it was great to see what we did.

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Now thats what you call a tangle!

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The bigger they are the harder they fall!

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Wonder what he wants to be when he grows up!

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Technology catches up with the best of them!

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Oscar ‘The Man’!

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Don’t forget to buy your ropes and cowboy gear on the way out!

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Once it was all over, we headed back home via the Historic Centre, meandered through a few streets to find our pastry man (delicious sweet empanadas) and picked up some Lonches for dinner.

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This new venue of the Casa Ciclista is still under construction and being organised, so there is no shower. For the week we have been here it was been bottle washes however today we organised with Isaac to go to his apartment and enjoy a lovely warm shower. Thanks mate.

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We got some nice photos with Isaac and expressed our many thanks and gratitude for providing us with a safe and welcoming place for the week.

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Isaac ‘The Legend’

 

As we were leaving tomorrow, made sure most things were all packed up tonight ready for our departure. Then it was time to relax and enjoy another movie.

What a lovely city with so much history and culture, we have thoroughly enjoyed our time here however you could easily spend so much more. However there are more places to see and adventure to be enjoyed.

Summary
Weather:  Blue sky and sunshine
Towns/Villages: Guadalajara
State / Country: Jalisco, MEXICO

Hasta la vista Amigos,  Stay Safe
The Travellingfoxes – Ken & Jules

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Categories: Uncategorized | 4 Comments

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4 thoughts on “Epic Cycle Journey Chapter 201 Tequila – Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico

  1. Janet

    With no posts I was just starting to worry!! Pictures are fantastic as always!! Stay safe and sweet. Janet

    Like

  2. Jeanie

    So glad to hear you are still having fun. It was great to get the full tour of Guadalajara. love the pic’s, the one of you eating grasshopper, not so much. The buildings, and cathedrals are amazing. Keep your adventures coming, I love to follow.

    Like

  3. Lewis

    It’s funny reading things you did before us, after we’ve done them. That libre really sucked, but it got turned around a bit for us as we were sitting there in a turnout cursing the crappy road when some guy came in and talked to us and then gave us a bottle of tequila. The road widened and got shoulders about 1 mi past the place where you got on the cuota 🙂

    Like

  4. Patricia Collins

    What a wonderful city! It was good that you took the time to explore the city and take it all in. The cathedrals are glorious and their stained glass windows are particularly stunning. So pleased that you are both looking so well and enjoying your travels.

    Like

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